Florence
The City of Lillies was teeming with Americans in May. Young college students studying the Tuscan light. Older folks visiting the Duomo. I have no idea how an ambulance made it to anyone in need.
I tacked on a few days in Florence to decompress from hosting a retreat in the hills of Chianti. Be with my own thoughts. Process.
I found myself seeking refuge from the crowds in some quiet and rare experiences in order to do this. This is my list.
In the Piazza del Mercato Centrale is a tiny little park with two benches. This was walking distance oasis from my hotel [hotel hotlink]. I would go here to read and eat lunch. Enter the restaurant ‘da Pinocchio’ to find it.
BAKERY
The river “Arno” runs through the city of Florence. In the twelfth and fourteenth centuries, the river was key to the city’s economic development as businesses needed water. Today, the Arno separates where the tourists are and the locals are not. The neighborhood on the ‘other side’ of the Arno, crossable by a walking bridge, is called “Oltarno.” My last day, I stole away to the S. Forno Bakery in Oltarno, pulled up a chair at one of the small tables in the window, and watched children trail reluctantly behind parents to school. Everything is prepared in house. I was excited to pay $3.60 for an almond croissant and a coffee.
YOGA
When I travel, I love to feel like a local. Workouts are my best hack for this. Sunday, I signed up for an Airbnb experience called “Yoga, Dinner, & 360 View of Florence” Host Simone (seen in video) has his PhD in psychiatry and won the real estate lottery with his penthouse apartment. You take stone stairs up a few flights. Then a teeny tiny in-apartment lift to his rooftop, unveiling a breathtaking view of the city. There was a moment we were on our backs doing a yoga pose, looking up at the sky. Blackbirds were swirling above against the bluest of blue canvasses. It felt surreal.
After class, Simone’s crew swiftly swaps out yoga mats for tables and chairs, inviting his guests to sit down for glasses of wine and a vegetarian meal. All the while, the sun is setting on the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (That’s the Florence Duomo. Most Italian cities have a “Duomo.” Its shorthand for Cathedral)
I asked Sylvia the instructor, where I could take a class locally and she pointed me to “The 22, a lifestyle space co owned by two women. I took a 9am class in their beautiful sun-filled studio. Co owner Aparna explained she was Sindhi, grew up in Hong Kong, married an Italian, and settled in Florence. I scheduled a massage with Brie, an American expat living in Florence. And it was more heavenly than my massage at the next place.
SPA
For 180 EUR, you can get a 50 min massage and 2 hours at the Roman baths at Helvetia & Bristol. I rotated through the steam room, Vichy shower, hot sauna, and salt room. My favorite was the pool, with buttons to activate showers and bubbles. The staff is incredibly nice as are the patrons. As a New Yorker, I always have to hit ‘system reset’ and remember to say ‘hello’ back to strangers in the locker room.
LUNCH WITH A VIEW
When you first walk into Signorvino, it has a “TGIFriday” vibe because it has the ‘fast food’ counter vibe going, and doubles as a wine store. But, weather permitting, please ask to sit outside on the terrace, because this is the gem of the restaurant. The terrace seating offers a stunning view of the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio bridge.
Other lunch ideas:
Fishing Lab
LUNCH AND GIFT IDEAS
This home decor store-come-coffee shop-come book store is something really special. Located next to the yoga studio 22 collective is La Menagerie. Perfectly coiffed older Italian women lunch next to expat college students glued to their laptops and phones. Different corners of La Menagerie, offer different experiences for each patron. There is an outdoor street level space, patio space, library space, piano space. It goes on and on. I wished I had spent more time here.
CLOTHING SHOPPING
Liviana Conti. I feel in love with a beautifully embroidered caramel poplin dress here.
Luisa Spagnoli. I first discovered this brand in Sicily. There are two boutiques in Florence. I love the balloon blouse and fringe shorts. Perfect for a vacation in Capri.
Other favorites:
Gerard Loft Innovative and distinctive Italian clothing. Higher priced. Features several different designers.
Firenze outlet
PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH A LOCAL
Airbnb
Sabrina Luciano
SEE THE DAVID statue
Palazzo Vecchio
HOTEL
Globus Urban Hotel. Great location. Great breakfast. Quiet.
WELLNESS OUTSIDE THE CITY
Villa Cora
